Understanding flash duration

When it comes to freezing movement, flash duration is a key aspect. The flash duration of different types of studio lighting varies greatly and it’s important to understand what it means and the effects it has if you’re looking to freeze movement.

Karl explains exactly what flash duration is and the impact it can have on your shot. In a step-by-step demonstration he shows different studio lights with different flash durations and their ability to freeze movement.

In this photography class we cover the following:

  • Why flash duration is important
  • What impact flash duration has
  • When to use fast flash duration
  • Measuring flash duration
  • Practical demonstrations of different flash durations
  • Sync speed vs flash duration

NOTE: This photography class is available with English subtitles.


    1. Hi, no you only need a fast enough shutter speed to cut out ‘light pollution’ from other sources other than the flash. Then you let the flash do all the freezing. If you were shooting in a completely dark room you could use any shutter speed even 2 seconds as there is no light pollution only the flash.

  1. Hi Karl, I’ve been enjoying your content and the information on the videos is great. I’ve got a question: why does a “fast” flash duration (as shown on the last example) “freeze” motion on a speeding fan on a shutter speed of 1/160th of a second? Is there something on the flash duration itself that creates this on the image, even on slower shutter speeds?

  2. When you switched to the second light, you had to move the flash up to power 3 and you got a slight blur.
    Based on your earlier discussion, did this lengthen the flash duration? If you had left it at power 2 and increased ISO or aperture to achieve exposure, would the yellow tape have been sharper?

    1. Hi, I’m very keen to answer your question. Please could you indicate at which time in the video you are referring to and I’ll come back to you with an answer.

  3. Hello,

    I am new to photography and I am so glad I am a member. I am interested maternity photography and I would like to know what flash duration is needed to freeze fabric in motion? A friend gave me an Alien Bees 800 (T.01 1/1100 to 1/500) and an Alien Bees 1600 (T.01 1/600 to 1/300). Can I freeze motion with these lights?

    1. Hi Glad to have you aboard and thanks for joining us! Yes the alien bees are pretty quick lights so you should be fine. But the question of how fast do the lights need to be comes down to how fast the movement is and that also comes down to how much magnification there is in the shot. For example think of movement relative to the picture area; someone may move very fast but if that movement is on a full length or wider shot then the apparent speed of the movement is less than if it was a closeup shot because the apparent movement has less distance to travel across the picture area if you know what I mean. All the best Karl.

  4. Hi Karl, supposing I’ve got a flash with a large flash duration but that has a high speed sync mode feature. Up to what extend could I reach the same results of a short flash duration shoot? Is the cut of light power the only problem in that case, as I would kind of use just a little portion of my flash light curve if my sync speed is to high compared to the duration of my flash? Regards

    1. Hi Zans, you could achieve whatever the fastest flash sync speed your HSS system will allow you. So for example if that was 1/4000th of a second shutter speed then that would be very similar to 1/4000th t0.1 flash duration. Of course the light levels you achieve with HSS are unknown because as you have pointed out the flash is cut off as part of the process. It will come down to a bit of testing to see how it works out. All the best Karl.

      1. Thanks for providing such a valuable lesson! Would using HSS (although its a workaround) work to freeze motion of fast flying liquids etc.? Would HSS allow me to use my cameras fastest shutter speed?

        1. Hi Molly, yes the purpose of HSS is to enable you to use fast shutter speeds with your flash. The downside is whether it will give you enough light and also if your shutter speeds achievable are fast enough to freeze what you want, the answers to this will only come by running some tests.

  5. Hello Karl

    I’ve been a fan for a very long time and have been watching your YouTube videos. I just signed up and became a member today and extremely excited. I’m currently on the Studio Lighting module and I must say that I’m learning a lot. I was always hesitant of Studio/Flashlights as it was unknown territory for me. But now, it’s actually making it very easy to understand and I’m not SCARED anymore :).

    Thanks again

    1. That’s great to hear and thanks for signing up. Make sure you watch the first class in the Lighting Theory section to as it’s very important to learning everything else.

  6. Hi Karl, Hoping you can help. I was planning on purchasing the Siros S kit but apparently, they can’t be sold in Australia at the moment (I think because of government regulation issues but I’m not too sure) and Broncolor does not know when they will become available again. It may take a long time… My question is, what is the main difference between the S and L series (apart from, obviously the L is battery powered). I need the lights for studio work… Should I hold out and wait and see what’s happening with the S series or just buy the L series? Cheers, Dan

    1. Hi Dan, I am surprised about the difficulties in getting hold of them! Yes the L is a lithium battery model, it can’t be plugged directly into the mains and it will be a little bigger and heavier but if you have spare batteries available on charge then you can always have one ready to swap out, the batteries are very good anyway and last for a decent amount of flashes even on full power, so you can use them in the studio or on location. You’ll see me using the L siros in this series of videos – https://karltayloreducation.com/section/environmental-portraits/

      1. Thanks, Karl. Appreciate the reply. One last question… Does the S siros have a faster flash duration than the L siros? If I were doing freeze-frame photography will the L siros work just as well as the S? Cheers, Dan

        1. Hi, according to the specs on Brons website the L version is actually slightly faster. I’ve used both and they are both good on high speed work.

  7. May be a dumb question, but were you using very fast shutter speeds too? Or just regular flash sync speeds. Thanks

    1. Hi just regular sync speeds. If the room had been completely dark I could have used a shutter speed last 2 seconds and it wouldn’t matter – shutter has no relation to fast flash duration, higher sync speeds are just useful for cutting out the ambient light in the room such as daylight, modelling lamps, interior lighting.

  8. Hi Karl, I’ ve decided to go with Paul C buff’s Enistain 640W/s units for my studio ligthing, and they claim a t.1 time at 1/256 power of 1/13.500 sec. which seem very very fast, and they also claim to be very very colour consistent in their output, why than is there so much price discrepancy between Broncolor and Paul C buff heads? Yes I’m aware that Paul C Buff lacks a lot of modifiers and they do not offer a dedicated studio power pack, but the lamps themselves seem like a very very good deal! Any thougths on that? Have you ever tried Paul C Buff yourself?

    1. Hi, I’ve never tried them or the Godox which I think have similar units. Some of the pricing difference is meant to be consistency, build and durability but I can’t comment on that not having used them.

  9. Hi Karl,

    I am well invested in the Elinchrom world (much like you were) and simply can’t afford to upgrade at this time. I have the ELB series and have always purchased the Pro heads because I was shooting architecture and didn’t need the fast flash duration. I am now trying to shift away from architecture and would really like to give splash photography a try, and need to invest in some heads that will get the job done.

    Elinchrom advertises their flash duration in t.05. The head that I’m considering reads as:

    Best flash duration t0.5 max. power ELB 1200 Action: 1/8850 s at 33%, power setting 4.7 / 172 Ws

    How would I know if 1/8850 in t0.5 is good enough? Thank you for your help Karl! =]

    1. Hi, T0.5 is a bit misleading as you would have discovered from watching this video. The speed they are quoting would be about 1/2500 in t0.1 which is respectable but not the fastest out there.

  10. Great stuff. Where do you think the line is between a fast flash and normal. Liquid and a moving fan is extremely fast but hair blowing in the wind or a fan is not as fast. Or maybe someone jumping. Rhetorical question almost but how fast does something have to be before you need a fast flash!?

    1. Hi Neil, if you think of it in the same terms as shutter speed, 1/500th – 1/1000th can freeze lots of things sufficiently such as hair, jumps etc so flashes with that duration speed can still be useful for many things.

  11. Hi Karl,

    It’s a pleassure start learning with you!!
    I looking for my first flash and I’m looking at my first flash for product and liquid photography like David Lund. However I have no money for a Broncolor Scoro. It is something that I have to work to achieve.

    I’ve seen this one from the Godox brand, the QT600II which it says has a:

    t.01 of 1/316 (1/25640) at 220v
    then puts 1/190 (1/19606) at 110v.

    What does this mean? Is it a good light to start ??
    Until we can have a professional team?

    Thank you!!

    1. Hi Benny, yes it can – with the broncolor system the fastest flash durations are slightly bluer than their colour optimum settings.

  12. Hi Karl, after watching this video, wanted to test something with a Fan i have here, and found something interesting,

    Godox AD200 pro
    1/256 power.

    got 2 photos,
    1/200, perfectly frozen the blades.

    1/1000, got blur, both at same power 1/256, any reason this happens ?

    1. Hi, you’ve probably got ambient light pollution and didn’t shoot it in a darkened room or your modelling lights were left on.

  13. Hi Karl, I have a couple of questions just to make sure about:

    1- at 2:24, the Siros that you mentioned, is it Siros 800 S?
    2- If it is the Siros 800 S, I’m confused when you said it can attain 1/8500sec of flash duration with T.1 when on many websites they mention that the flash duration is 1/4000sec with T.1
    3- is it enough to freeze motion with 1/4000sec such as liquid splashes?

    Final question 🙂

    I would love to buy my first Broncolor and I’ve hesitated which one to buy, the Siros 800 S or Siros 800 L? I would love to take the opinion from an expert such as yourself.

    1. Hi Ahmad, yes 800S, it can attain the very fast speeds from power 4.4 and lower. It can attain 1/9000sec at t0.1 which is equivalent to about 1/16,000th sec at t0.5

    2. Hi Karl,
      don’t answer questions 2 and 3, some guy on youtube gave an update, and surprisingly the flash duration for Siros 800 L at power 2 and 3 is 1/9660sec, power 4 is 1/8550sec. He did a mistake to put back on the speed mode.

      just question 1 and Final question

  14. After reading the specs of several flashes on the Broncolor website, I also see different flash durations depending on the maximum or minimum “energy level. being used. Based on your explanation about different flash units, some with a better ability to stop fast action, I’m assuming this is what you meant by being better able to stop fast action at a lower power setting. It would seem this would be another element to utilize creatively, depending on how much blur you want in the final image.

    1. Hi, yes generally speaking you get the fastest speeds out of the bron flashes from power 5 and lower.

  15. Hi, for the old petrol heads among us, this is the same principle as using a strobe light to adjust the pre ignition on old cars. The fly wheel has a mark and that needs to adjusted when the car is running idl. And in order the see if the mark is correct we used a strobe gun to freeze the mark. That you could tell if the pre ignition was early to late.

    Just some general info…

  16. Hi Karl, I would buy a strobe for splash photography and I saw that in one of your videos you have a Elinchrom Style RX600. There is someone close to where I leave that is selling two of them for 800 USD (almost never used) and I was wondering if you experienced their speed and if you would recommend them for splash photography. I am shooting in the laundry room or in my flat, the space is really limited and I do not need the light to be really strong. Or is there any model you would recommend? I would not spend more than 400/500 USD per light. Another option I found is a Phottix Indra 360 TTL (a bit out of budget though). Thanks and cheers MRfotostudio.

    1. Hi, no the RX600s are not really fast enough for splash work, Elinchrom do have some faster models now on their website with the specifications listed.

  17. Hi Karl!
    I was wondering, so the only way to know your measurement is to actually test it?
    Why some of the manufacturers don’t mention this in the product details?
    I could only find my flash duration. I guess I have to see where I belong doing the test.

    1. Hi, All flash manufacturers (studio flash) should state what their flash duration is somewhere in their specifications. This will be listed as a t0.5 or a t0.1 measurement but remember as I pointed out in this video don’t be fooled by t0.5 measurements.

  18. Hi Karl

    is the cut-off technology another name for IGBT (Insulated-Gate Bipolar Transistor)

    Thank you.

    1. Ha Ha that’s out of my league! You’d have to check with an electronics expert at broncolor for that. 🙂

      1. I got the answer!, the IGBT technology/shortened flash duration has a T-mode for a strobe called Dynalite Baja, there’s a setting from T.1 to T.6

        T.1 = 1/12800s
        T.2 = 1/6400s

  19. This is an eye opening lecture…….. Thanks for this great information.

    I would like to know the measure of Speedlight’s flash duration…….. Is it t0.5 or t0.1?

    Thanks Karl

    1. Hi Speedlites when on half power or less can be very fast even for a t0.1 measurement. The problem though with them is they are quite weak in power to get the fastest speeds.

  20. Hi Karl,
    This is an amazing tutorial, but it could have been a bit better if you compared it also to speed lights. I tried my Canon 580 EX ii to freeze some water splashes even at 1/128 but still noticed some blur, I wonder what I could do to get it absolutely frozen.
    Many thanks Karl.

    1. Hi Aby

      Then its not the flashduration… Its rather do to focus-problem…
      580 EX II flashduration is fast… So somewhere around 1/16-1/32 of power should be more than enough to freeze watersplashes

      This is at T0.1
      1/1 = 1/250
      1/2 = 1/919
      1/4 = 1/2066
      1/8 = 1/3759
      1/16 = 1/6024
      1/32 = 1/9470
      1/64 = 1/14000
      1/128 = 1/20000

    1. Hi, No the t0.1 simply refers to a the type of measurement used to measure how short the flash burst is capable of achieving.

  21. Hi Karl, just a quick question. If I am using a flash and would like to capture the motion blur in the picture with let’s say a Profoto mono-block. What are the settings/ tricks to achieve this?

  22. Dear Karl,

    If I could give 7 stars I will..such a professional level..and having you as my first teacher in these journey I must be very very lucky.

    I have a question regarding my next purchase for a flash , I will use it mostly for shooting food photography , Could you please give me your advice in the product bellow :

    LUMI 400 II 800Ws

    6 f-Stop Power Range with 30 step adjustment from 5.0 to 8.0 in increments of 0.1
    Fast Recycling times
    Flash Duration of up to 1/2000s (Dependant on flash output)

    I don’t have big budget a big budget to start but I do want have good quality photography

    Thank you again

    1. Hi Lili, You won’t really need fast flash duration for most food photography, not unless you plan to start throwing liquids around! 800W is plenty of power for food shots too. I’d prefer more than 6 stop range incase I want to shoot really shallow depth of field but that is easily overcome by putting a high quality 3 stop ND filter on the lens instead. Check on the LEE IR ND range for the best ND glass.

      1. Dear Karl,

        Thank you very much for your help, consedering the light , how many lights I need? is it best to have 2 lights or 3 lights?

        Thank you again

        1. Hi Lili, you can do great things with 2 lights but 3 lights would be my personal minimum as it multiplies the possible lighting solutions exponentially.

  23. Hello Mr.Karl
    Hope you are fine
    thanks for this great tutorial
    But I have one question if you don’t mind
    I have a Godox Strobe light and its flash duration 1/2000~1/800s
    Can you explain this to me please …?
    Thank you

    1. Hi Ghufran, well it sounds as if the fastest flash duration on this Godox light is 1/2000th of second and that the slowest is 1/800th of a second. But you should check if that is a t0.1 measurement (which if it is then good) or if it is a t0.5 measurement which if it is then means it’s not as fast as shown.

  24. good explanation!
    i never looked so consciously at the duration (burning time) of my flashes. when buying a new one, i shall now pay attention to this!

    1. Hi Mamophoto, great but keep in mind this is only really relevant if shooting fast moving subjects.

  25. Hi Karl, I’m not sure if my concept is correct. For example I want to shoot with full power which t=1/200, is it mean that my shutter speed can’t faster than 1/200?
    And think it further, is it no limit for shutter speed if I turn to HSS mode? E.g. shutter speed 1/4000 at full power t=1/200
    Many thanks

    1. Hi Chiu, if you are saying that the flash duration will be 1/200th of a second at full power then if you use any shutter speed on the camera that is faster than that then you will be reducing the power of the flash because you will be cutting away some of it’s light. So for example if you used 1/400th of a second (assuming all other synchronisation was OK) then you would loose half the power of the flash.

  26. Hello Karl! I just signed up on your website as I want to build my skills better than they are now, and look at trying some different things. I had heard a lot of information on flash duration and wasn’t too concerned about it but I do like to learn new things. It appears that duration can be quite important! I currently have a pair of Xplor 600 strobes and was looking at the specifications. The duration is listed as 1/220 to 1/10000 second (T0.1) so I am assuming, if what I heard in the video correctly is true, then the duration at the lowest power setting would be 1/10000 and at full power it would be 1/220?

    1. Hi William, yes your logic is correct on how the duration works in relation to power. With more expensive packs you retain a very fast flash duration at reasonable power and consistent colour, I’m not familiar with this particular light as I’ve not used it but I’ve seen some positive reviews.

      1. I really do like the light itself. It uses a common Bowens mount for modifiers, which is a popular mount. The one thing that is very different from the ones you have been using in the videos is the power level, and power adjustment. The ones you have show power levels from 2.0 to 10.0 (Excluding the really nice one you have that can go down to .2) The Xplor 600 goes from 1/256 power level to 1:1 power level on the dial, in 1/3 increments. So it would go from 1/256 to 1/256 + 1/3. Then +2/3, then 1/128. I do like how your lights are more intuitive to making adjustments. Need to add 1 stop of light? Go from 6.0 to 7.0 for example. And yours can go in .1 increments. I do like that you have a LOT more fine tuning available than mine. From 1 stop to another I have only 2 increments. You have 9.
        As mentioned there is a lot having to do with cost and features. The Siros for example are about $1500 each and don’t come with a power supply/controller. The ones I have are $600 each with built in battery pack. If I were to start my own studio I would certainly look into those Siros lights for in-studio use!

        1. Hi William, the Siros are certainly more expensive but I’m not sure what you mean by a ‘power supply/controller’ the Siros are available as either battery powered or mains powered. Cheers Karl.

          1. My apologies. I thought the Siros were only available with external power supply. Thanks for the information!

  27. Maybe you can help? garage set up, at night, white back ground, model light off, others lights off dark, im using calumet/bowen travel 750r 1/600 duration, im throwing stuff in air to freeze motion, peanuts, licorice, moving hands etc. and its all blurry, when i stand there im not but my hand movement is and the falling stuff, so why if you can tell me, can’t i freeze the little bit of motion im introducing. im shoot 1/100 f8 iso 100

    1. Hi David, the first thing to check is if when you take the flash trigger off and just shoot with the camera and no flash if any ambient light is being recorded. If your pictures come out totally black then great that means you have no light pollution. If you have ambient light pollution increase your shutter speed until it’s gone (or you reach your maximum sync speed). Then put your flash back on and if the problem persists then this means the flash duration is not fast enough. Many flash systems claim durations higher than they can actually achieve so you will have to run some tests with the flash at lower power settings to see if the duration of the flash improves, and/or compare to a Speedlite on quarter power or less which usually have quite fast durations.

  28. Now that had cleared up a lot of things for me now no wonder with my bowing lights I could of not get sharp images at low power and fast moving subject…… thanks

  29. This is the best tutorial i have heard on this subject!

    The flash duration is quicker at lower settings so instead of closing down you could push iso (No too much) or bring the light closer. the Scorro on minimum power is 1/10 000 of a second i think!

    Well done

  30. thanks Karl!

    Im really enjoying your tutorials learning a whole lot more than I had been with a variety of youtube vids and books alone.

    Could I ask what would you suggest as the maximum useful dimension of softbox for a single speedlight do you think 60cm like the costly Westcott Rapid Box

    1. Hi John, i’d get the biggest softbox you can, as long as it as got an internal diffuser about half the depth in of the softbox and you set your speedlite to wide-angle then it should do a decent job. Bigger softboxes are more versatile as you will learn as you progress through this course.

    1. Hi John, speedlites can be extremely fast even 1/30,000th of a second but they are very weak so you need to cluster 4 or 6 of them together to get anything meaningful out of them.

  31. Hi Karl,

    Thinking through High Speed Sync, assuming a slower flash duration which is linear, I guess is it essentially similar to shooting in bright sunlight at high shutter speeds? In bright sunlight the light is there and constant before the shutter opens and after it closes. If a linear flash has a duration longer than the shutter speed then to my thinking it must have much the same properties. Does that make any sense? With a pulsing type HSS that wouldn’t necessarily be the case I guess though.

    I guess that using HSS in an indoor setting with mixed light would also ensure that the ambient/artificial lights won’t taint the image at all?

    1. Hi Kevin yes you are correct for certain High speed sync a longer linear flash duration is used and therefore the amount of light recorded is in this case dependent on your shutter speed.

  32. Hi, good video thanks, you mention that the modelling light would affect the test, I thought the modelling light automatically turned off for the duration of the flash, therefore couldn’t affect the exposure?

  33. I see. Maybe I misunderstood what t0.1 represents, or maybe we’re actually talking about the same thing in different words.
    I found that with my profoto strobes at full power, if the shutterspeed goes beyond a certain speed (in this case 1/400 and faster), the exposure actually drops off. The way I rationalised this for myself was by looking at the t0.1 value at different power settings (published by profoto), and comparing it to my shutter speed, and I found that when my shutter speed was faster than the t0.1 value (or thereabouts), the exposure started to drop off. This was without HSS or HS (I used leaf shutter lenses to achieve the fast shutter speed without losing sync). It sounds like you referred to this phenomenon in your response, but more from a HS or HSS perspective.

    1. Hi Kryn, the t0.1 or t0.5 simply refers to the way the flash burst duration is measured with t0.1 measurement providing you a more accurate interpretation of the whole flash bursts duration and not just a majority percentage of the burst. The issue you were experiencing with faster shutter speeds and full power on strobes is that at full power the burst of light can be so long that your shutter is not syncing as well and/or the burst of light is actually longer than the shutter speed and therefore you lose some light because part of it has been ‘chopped’ off my the shutter.

  34. This is very interesting! I’d love to hear a bit more about flash duration and how it affects exposure. I did some experimenting, and provided a write up in the general chat forum for it. I found it interesting how flash duration could affect exposure depending on shutter speed. Could you explain a bit more on that?

    1. Hi Kryn, in theory on a good flash system it shouldn’t affect exposure in terms of the way I’d expect to use a system. For example if I was using a flash on power 4.5 and then chose to use the high speed flash option then i’d still expect (and with broncolor) would get 4.5 of power, the duration just refers to the brevity of the pulse of flash but not the strength of output. The difference to this would be with HS or HSS (high speed sync modes) where the flash burst is made to last longer (or pulsed) so it can be used at higher shutter speeds (beyond normal sync speeds) such as 1/2000th, 1/4000th, 1/8000th etc, in these cases then yes the shutter speed will have an effect on the flash exposure because the shutter speed itself is either cutting short the flash or extending it depending on the shutter speed selected but this is quite different from true fast t0.1 flash durations. This is why most fast flash durations only operate at mid to low powers on their respective systems.

  35. Hi Karl,
    The first shots with the older light were shot at 1/160. Would it have been possible to shoot at a higher shutter speed to freeze the motion further and open the aperture if required?

    1. Hi Peter, you are of course limited by the maximum sync speed of your camera. On most DSLRs this is usually 1/200th or 1/250th and as you open the aperture even one stop then you would need the shutter speed to go from 1/160th to 1/320th to compensate, so you will never have a lot of flexibility this way. There are workarounds with High speed sync that we cover in other chapters but there will be limitations so it is always better to have faster flash duration where possible. Cheers Karl.

  36. Hello Karl, nice and informative session. just a question. will there be difference in freezing power of flash if it is electricity powered or battery powered. Take example if you would have shot this with Siros L?


    1. nope the freezing and power of light will be the same whether you were using a Siros L or a normal Siros if they are both 400 or both 800 joule lights

    1. Hi Tri, then you will likely have a frozen subject from the flash with an after trail image from the ambient light.

  37. I absolutley love how you make everything make sense. I can’t stop spreading the word. You are the perfect teacher. It all just makes sense. Thank you

  38. Very informative as always, thanks Karl. It would be interesting to see how a speed light would compare to those lights. I assume on it’s lowest power it would be somewhere between the two?

    1. Hi Russell, speedlites have very fast flash duration at their low power settings, even speeds of 1/10,000th but the problem is the power is very weak and you need a lot of them to make it work (as you will see in one of my tutorials in the ‘product’ section’) with a studio light you have more useable power and of course attachable modifiers.

  39. Karl you are just the most BRILLIANT instructor out there! The way you explain, the intonation of your voice coupled with your example leave me with NO questions and only inspiration!! MANY THANKS!!

  40. Hello Karl,
    I hope you are well.
    What do you think about the flash duration of the Profoto B1 or D2 to freeze movement ?

    1. Hi Christophe, I’m not up to speed with their specifications, what you need to look for is their specified t0.1 measurements. If they have t0.1 measurements of 1/8000th then they have fast flash durations but then there is also how the flash is cut off and the tail end of light that matters so you would need to refer to tests and actual examples for evidence or rent a unit and try yourself. Cheers Karl.

  41. What is a reasonable t.01 time for freezing humans in motion? As an example, I can freeze football players (American Football) easily with a shutter speed of 1/1000. With that in mind, would a t.01 time of over 1/1000 achieve the same result? Thanks!

    1. Hi Anthony, it is all relative to the amount of movement across the frame. Obviously with a wide angle lens the movement would appear less, whilst in closer it could appear more movement. I find for my liquid shots it has to be t0.1 1/3000th or better on some fashion shots with moving dresses then t0.1 at 1/1000th may be sufficient.

      1. You know, I’ve never thought of freezing power in terms of focal length, but it makes perfect sense now that you mention it. Thanks Karl.

    1. Hi Suliman, flash duration is how long the actual flash lasts and sync is the maximum shutter speed that you can use with a flash. Cameras with leaf shutters can sync faster. It is all explained clearly in the video maybe take another look at it again. There are also some other chapters that will help you. Thanks.

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